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clunky drive train please help !
#121
Posted 31 July 2009 - 08:05 AM
havent read the whole thread its getting pretty long but are they going to give you a free one ie is it under warranty? Let me know bout that coz i've kinda got teh same problem with my diff not as severe but how do you prove your diff is making the noise to the shop who gave it to you....... or is the shop who gave it to u a mechanic?
#122
Posted 31 July 2009 - 03:37 PM
we are going to arrange to get it sent back to him by currier, then he's going to set the backlash so that it doesn't clunk!
he's going to pay for the currier and the service will be free
and the way that i am giving proof to the shop, is by telling them over the phone that i've been replacing everything else around it, but i havn't gotten any where, and i have said that i've been around to alot of mechanics and they have all said it's the pinion.
i guess it's about trust here, witch suits me because i wouldn't send my diff off to them, leaving me with out a diff for a week just to fake it or something? lol
#123
Posted 01 August 2009 - 10:04 AM
#124
Posted 01 August 2009 - 04:12 PM
yeah good thinking jay, you were right but what your friend did by adding thicker oil just masks it! as old mate said above ^
so i will be taking the diff out sunday night and sending it monday, so i'll let you guys know how i go
how do you pack a diff properly? obviously card board will just fail
#125
Posted 01 August 2009 - 04:36 PM
i havn't even had a chance to go sliding yet.
#126
Posted 01 August 2009 - 07:11 PM
the pinion and ring gear need to meet perfectly, thats why there are "diff shops" . they set it all up for ya. adding shims on either sie of the ring gear to adjust it and also on the pinion gear to adjust it too so they meet perfectly. Check the silvia manual on this website for bit more info, or google.
isn't that expensive to get a diff shop to do. i think like 150 or so. but still enough to get pissed off about
#127
Posted 01 August 2009 - 10:13 PM
yes very much so. wish i had the tools and know how.
i might try to see if option 1 can give me some money back on it so that i can pay for the diff shop to do this so i don't go without a friggen car.
yeah it's got so many KM's on it just about everything is going at the moment, but seriously after a few years it will be fully restored LOL
#128
Posted 02 August 2009 - 07:53 PM
#129
Posted 03 August 2009 - 10:56 AM
it's a pain the butt 2 hour drive.. will be good to get this fixed though..
any one know where to get new center bearings? for the tailshaft
thanks
#130
Posted 04 August 2009 - 02:41 PM
had to ring organise a tow truck, cost me $180 and i'm trying to get option 1 to give me that money back we'll see.. becuase he sold me a fricken buggered diff.
fully sick day
i'm waiting for the curier to pick up the diff.
#131
Posted 15 August 2009 - 03:36 PM
i fit my new tail shaft and it's good to go.
i'm back on the road as of today but i still have a serious clunk
i've kind of worked my way from the rear of the car to the front doing every thing i can
while i had my tail shaft out, i was looking at the gearbox rear spline and the out rigger bearing ect, i couldn't tell much, but it was making the clunking noise when i turned it by hand, so i can be pretty sure that that's what it is. it just intensifies under load, like seriously big clunking.
so i am wondering if some one can tell me these questions i have; is it hard to rebuild the bearbox myself
can i just by a rebuild kit for the rear extention of the gearbox without getting all the gears ect
how much am i looking at to buy a kit either for the rear or whole box, how much to take it to a shop
the threads been dead but thanks for any answers!
#133
Posted 22 August 2009 - 12:09 AM
i'll be watching this thread closley to see if u manage to find the problem.
cheers, Mark
#134
Posted 22 August 2009 - 01:33 PM
Or send yrs to ppg for rebuild and get straight cut gears with dog engagement, then you wouldn't hear clunk over gear shift bangs!
#135
Posted 07 September 2009 - 06:45 PM
basicly still got the problem
got a job and i've just been working rather then trying to sort this out
basicly this is what i need to do
i think it's the spline in the passenger side axle, think it's stuffed. but seriously can't tell with out voiding the warrenty for them
i need to arrange to meet some one with a S13 6 bolt shimmed diff, and 6 bolt axles and i need to change parts over and diagnose it, i'll do all the work but i doubt any one is keen
yeah i'm doubting it's the gearbox, it just sounds like it when you lay under the car but flippen heck who knows
it's coming from the rear left hand side and it clunks just driving over dirt roads.. witch maks me think it's axle spline or the bearings in the outer housing
i'm just learning to live with it and i hate driving the car, but i have to every day
this is so retarted
#136
Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:50 PM
The k frame where the crossmember meets the body there are 4 vertical bushes now you cant buy these bushes you have to buy a whole new k frame.
so what i did was get a mate who worked at a gasket place to cut me a rubber doughnut and i placed it at the bottom of the subframe mount (you cant find this mount just by the rear wheel held on by 3 bolts one of which is the bottom of the k frame mount) this basically just pushes everything up and tightens everything up and no more mystery clunk hope this helps
#137
Posted 18 September 2009 - 11:19 PM
you still got this problem! shit
a word of advice
i think getting a whole new diff will work out SOOOOO MUCH cheaper and easier. even if you weld the new one. there are people trying t osell them to you for 80 already welded. thats 80 bucks. That will save you hours of stuffing around trying to figure out what goes where inside the diff, and when you swap centres over you're going to have to not stuff anything up or else you just may have the exact same problem again. Just find a r180 and put it in. I've got 2 r200's here, one open centre, one (either open or worn out LSD) centre... both 4.3 ratio i think, or 4.3 and 4.1. If it's easy enough to put one of those in you can have them cheap too..... at least it will narrow down your problem. Just do this before attempting to rebuild a diff please!
I'd probably take the centre out to weld it too.. just incase you got some slag you didnt knock of and it comes loose in while yo'ure driving around it could be deadly. Yes a stick welder will d oit, depends how good you are. Make sure its all completely clean and free of grease and anything not bare metal. And read a lot on welding and welding diffs if you are going to attempt it.
#138
Posted 07 October 2009 - 07:53 PM
HAS ANY ONE, had an experience, with any car of a stuffed spline on the CV ?
i'm talking about the bit that slides into the hub, any one had any bad splines? moving or clunking radically ?
#139
Posted 07 October 2009 - 08:08 PM
no to your question
but had a thought
its probably really really obvious
is your exhaust all hooked up tight and not moving when you change gears etc with worn engine mounts? maybe its hitting something. mine does and makes a big clunk but i know its the exhaust but if i didnt know this i'd be like what the hell is that clunking in my diff....
#140
Posted 24 October 2009 - 06:27 PM
nar my exhuast is tight as
anyway guys finally found the problem, i worked out that it had to be the inner cv joints on both axles, even though i bought new axles and reconditioned cv joints, it was just bad luck i had two bad pairs of axles in a row
so once i figured that out i took it to a proffessional and left it with him and he basicly confirmed what i thought about the cv joints
it's both diff sides, but way more the passenger diff side.. so i'm really just putting up with it
might get new axles and change to 5 bolt, i think they're way stronger. i'll work some thing out with a 5 bolt diff to go with it
thanks
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